THREADS OF STRUGGLE: ADDRESSING BARRIERS TO DRESS FASHION DEVELOPMENT IN GHANA"

Abstract

Fashion in Africa has a rich historical presence, rooted in centuries of personalized garment creation and bespoke clothing traditions that predate the industrial revolution (Fernie, 2003). Unlike Western counterparts, Africa's fashion industry thrives on individualized designs, with a distinctive emphasis on the bespoke market. This unique approach has both strengths and weaknesses, contributing to a dynamic and competitive landscape in creative fashion design. The Ghanaian fashion system exemplifies this localized approach, where the creation and production of garments are often personalized and tailored to individual preferences. The prevalence of bespoke garments, such as the popular kaba and slit couture in Ghana, fuels a continuous influx of new designs into the market. Social occasions, including funerals, naming ceremonies, marriages, and rites of passage, become participatory runways where individuals showcase their exclusive designs, turning wearers into walking models. The communal nature of African societies amplifies the impact of these unique fashion systems, transforming social gatherings into dynamic platforms for fashion dissemination. Observers at these events actively seek inspiration from the diverse array of designs, fostering a culture of mimicry and modification among the youth. This phenomenon aligns with the trick-across theory of fashion, where new designs influence and spread through social networks within the community. However, this localized fashion system also presents challenges. Designer anonymity prevails as many creators operate without established labels, hindering the recognition of their brand identities. Furthermore, the lack of mass production limits the financial rewards for these creative minds, as their unique designs do not reach a broader market. This study delves into the intricate dynamics of Africa's localized fashion systems, focusing on the Ghanaian context, to explore the unique strengths and weaknesses inherent in this approach. By understanding the social, cultural, and economic factors shaping these systems, we can gain insights into the opportunities and challenges faced by designers operating within this distinctive fashion landscape.